7 Days In Bhutan

Bhutan, The Land Of The Thunder Dragon, a place where a smile exists on everyone’s face, a country where success is measured with Gross National Happiness (GNH) instead of Gross Domestic Product (GDP) and it is a real thing. A country with a population of about 800,000, where television was just introduced in 1999, sets an example to the world out there by taking genuine care about the well-being of its citizens and its land. Located on the Himalayas, this unique place has managed to maintain its traditional values by giving up the modernization of the world and that makes this place a hidden gem when it comes to travel destinations.

After planning this trip for 2 years to add to my travel diary, I finally got to spend 7 full days in this beautiful country and so one late October afternoon I arrived at Paro International Airport, via Kathmandu, and met my soon-to-be-good-friend driver/guide, Jamyang (from Bhutan Meonyul Tours & Treks) and Pema. We drove for an hour, directly to the capital, Thimphu, checked in our hotel, had a yak meat burger for dinner at THE ZONE RESTAURANT AND BAR and retired for the night to prepare for an early start in the morning. Our home for the night was at HOTEL BHUTAN, a brilliant 3-star hotel, minutes away from the city center and the authentic bhutanese crafts market.

Booking.com

What to do in Bhutan?

Day 1

Being infested with nature by law, this country is home to thousands of scenic hikes (my second favourite thing to do in my travels), one of which was our first thing to do in Thimphu at SANGAYGANG, for aerial views of the capital and a warm up for what’s coming in the next few days. The half hour hike was short but long enough to build an appetite so we headed to the FOLK HERTIAGE MUSEUM RESTAURANT for an early lunch and had our first Bhutanese meal in the most authentic way. This is a great place to prepare your taste buds for all the local food that’s coming your way and as you know i travel for food. A big spread of dishes is put on your table including the famous Ema Datsi (Chilies with cheese), yes, chilies are used here as the primary ingredient and the hotness depends on how they have been cooked, the sooner you get used to them the better.

Our next stop was the BUDDHA POINT, a 54 meter high statue of the Great Buddha Dordenma which houses more than one hundred thousand smaller statues made with bronze and gold, of Great Buddha Dordenma himself. This magnificent statue is located in the midst of the mountains overlooking the southern part of the city. It represents the body of the Buddha and also makes a perfect spot for an instagram post.

From the body to the mind, we headed to the MEMORIAL CHORTEN, a stupa representing the mind of the Buddha, the most religious landmark in the city of Thimphu. You will see locals reciting prayers and whirling prayer wheels in a clockwise direction, which is the norm for all religious structures in Bhutan.

We are in a country known highly for agriculture and vegetation and what better place to check it out than THE FARMER’S MARKET. This place was overflowing with fresh fruits, vegetables, spices, herbs and other local eateries for the late night munchies or something to take back home. I bought myself some fruits and dried apples for snacking during the long drives and their popular red chili powder to add some Bhutanese flavor in my cooking back home. Yes i do love cooking as well and enjoy using unique ingredients from my travels.

We asked Jamyang to drop us off in the center of the city where we had to check out the HUMAN TRAFFIC SIGNAL, a traffic intersection in the heart of Thimphu which once housed the only traffic signal in Bhutan but was immediately replaced by a policeman.

Before heading back to the hotel we stopped at THE AMBIENT CAFÉ for a break. This cosy café is home to some delicious gluten free pastries and really good coffee, an ideal spot in Thimphu to just sit back, relax, read a book , catch up on social media or add some travel posts on the gram.

It was Friday night and their weekend had just begun, a great opportunity to experience the local nightlife. With our guide Jamyang, we headed for a boys night out to THE MOJO PARK, a popular bar with a live band buzzing with locals and tourists alike. I personally loved this place, great music, a bonfire on the outdoor area for the cold and since everyone in Bhutan speaks English, it’s also a great place to meet locals and fellow travelers.

SUMMARY

• Hike at Sangaygang
• Lunch at Folk Heritage Museum Restaurant
• Visit Buddha Point
• Visit the Memorial Stupa
• Visit the Farmer’s Market
• Visit the Human Traffic Signal
• Coffee break at The Ambient Café
• Nightlife at The Mojo Park

Day 2

We began our day with a 2 hour drive to the city of Punakha via the DOCHULA PASS, a mountain pass at 3,100 meters elevation located on the road to Punakha. A clear view of the Himalayan range can be seen here, including the Mount Massangang, the highest peak of Bhutan. This is also the place where 108 stupas have been built as a memorial to honor the 108 bhutanese soldiers who were killed in the battle against India.

On reaching Punakha, we headed to CHIMI LHAKHANG (a.k.a. THE FERTILITY TEMPLE), a place visited by tourists for sightseeing and many couples from all around the world who seek the blessings to conceive.

It was time for lunch and since there is practically nothing on the internet about food places in Punakha, Jamyang took us to a place called BABEE RESTAURANT, where we stuffed ourselves with a delicious buffet. It was one of the two food places we repeated during this trip.

The last stop for the day was at the most famous place to visit in Punakha, THE PUNAKHA DZONG, the administrative center of Punakha district. A majestic fortress situated in the most picturesque location. This is a must do for some gorgeous clicks, see for yourself.

Tired and sleepy, we spent the rest of the day in our beautiful hotel, DAMCHEN RESORT.

Summary

• Transfer to Punakha
• Pit stop at Dochula Pass
• Visit Chimi Lhakhang (a.k.a. The Fertility Temple)
• Lunch at Babee Restaurant
• Visit Punakha Dzong
• Check in The Damchen Resort

Day 3

Waking up to some amazing views in this scenic valley is what travelling is all about. Well rested and well fed, it is time for another hike and this time to KHAMSUM YULLEY NAMGYAL CHOETEN, a stupa built on top of a hill. A 30-40 minute climb, slightly more challenging than the one in thimphu but totally worth it. We were fortunate enough to witness a religious ritual at the top, the Buddhist monks chanted mantras whilst playing their music instruments in the presence of the burning incense in the courtyard. We then followed them inside the stupa where Pema told us about the murals and statues inside. To top it off, we could access the rooftop of the stupa, where we were rewarded with the best views of Punakha valley.

It was almost lunch time but we could squeeze in the PUNAKHA SUSPENSION BRIDGE. An engineering marvel loaded with prayer flags that stretches approximately 170m long across the Po Chhu river. One for the adrenaline rush and also for an impressive click.

Since there aren’t many places to eat in Punakha, we decided to goto Babee once again and because it was a late lunch they greeted us with a delicious spread of dishes. They even invited us over for dinner on the same night and volunteered to prepare the dishes according to our choice and taste, now where else could that happen?.

Before heading back to the hotel we made a quick stop at the SANGCHHEN DORJI LHUENDRUP NUNNERY where Jamyang told us all about the nuns in Buddhism and the history behind this place whilst admiring aerial views of the punakha valley.

We spent the afternoon chilling at the hotel, whilst sipping some coffee and making new friends. The day ended with our custom made dinner at Babee Restaurant, it was the best meal we had in the entire trip.

Summary

• Hike to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Choeten
• Visit the Punakha Suspension Bridge
• Lunch at Babee Restaurant
• Visit the Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery
• Special dinner at Babee Restaurant

Day 4

Leaving the beautiful Punakha valley wasn’t easy but it was necessary for our next adventure in Phobjikha Valley. Pema and Jamyung made sure that we were entertained during the long drives so for the next 2 hours we were singing along to Guns and Roses and Maroon 5, throughout the ride I had one thought in mind, we are going to stay on a farm.

Before we could reach our unknown beds, we set off for the GANGTEY NATURE TRAIL, an extremely picturesque flat trail where we took our sweet time to explore the wilderness and take a million photos. At the end of this trail we reached the BLACK NECKED CRANE CENTER, a sanctuary for the black necked cranes of Bhutan, a place where you can learn all about them and if luck is on your side, you might even see one up close.

From there we left the gravel of the road and headed up one of the mountains, at this point we had no cellular network and were completely disconnected from the world, heading to the place where we were going to stay.

Our hosts didn’t speak any English but Jamyang and Pema helped us with that. The farm was cold, really cold and the only warmth we had was the wooden fire in the center of the living room, where everyone gathered around sipping tea and chatting till it was time for an epic meal. Dinner was a home cooked meal made with ingredients grown in the back yard and it was nothing like any other meal we’ve had, the best Ema Datsi till date.

Summary:

• Do the Gangtey Nature Trail
• Visit the Black Necked Crane Center
• Check in the farmstay in Phobjikha
• Dinner at the farm

Day 5

We had a long day ahead of us, yet we could not miss the opportunity to watch the sunrise from our farmhouse. It was blistering cold and our 5 blankets just gave us enough warmth for a decent night’s sleep but once we stepped out in the open with our new four-legged friend, it was totally worth it. Within a few minutes after that we had an authentic Bhutanese breakfast around the wooden fire, which was the same as lunch or dinner but with an addition of fried eggs.

Goodbye Phobjikha and hello Paro, it was a 5 hour journey which drained most of our energy, all I wanted was some food and a bed. We checked in Janka Resort in Paro, rested up, and headed out for a much awaited non-bhutanese dinner. Don’t get me wrong I love Bhutanese food, but we wanted a change and a good pizza at AUTHENTIC PIZZA in Paro certainly completed our food travel experience.

Summary:

• Sunrise in Phobhjika
• Transfer to Paro
• Check in Janka Resort
• Dinner at Authentic Pizza

Day 6

We did so many things this day, starting with a drive upto the CHELE LA PASS, the highest pass in Bhutan, a vantage point for Paro and Haa. There are quite a few reasons why you should visit here, for starters, the views are outstanding, it’s filled with prayer flags giving it a beauty of its own, you might also get a chance to see the blue poppy flower here, the national flower of Bhutan, and for the fitness fanatics, it’s a famous spot to mountain bike. However, one thing in particular intrigued me the most, this pass is also home to infants who have passed away.

The drive to Chele la Pass was long, a round trip with about 45 min stop took about 5 hours but everything else in Paro is in close proximity to each other, half an hour on foot is all you need to explore the entire city as per Jamyang. Once we were back in the city, we visited the NATIONAL MUSEUM and the PARO DZONG.

An interesting observation about Bhutan, everyone wears the national dress on a regular basis, ‘Gho’ for the men and ‘Kira’ for the women is so common that we couldn’t resist not trying it out one ourselves,  before a late lunch at MY KIND OF PLACE RESTAURANT, an Asian restaurant in the city center.

After some souvenir shopping in Paro and a quick coffee at BRIOCHE CAFE, we arrived at our last accommodation for the trip at AUM CHODDEN HOMESTAY, another local travel-home to stay. However, this one was quite different, the layout of the home was the same but it was more prepared for tourists and all kinds of travellers, with really comfortable floor beds, extremely hospitable hosts and a bunch of rooms to stay with decent facilities. You could just visit the place and have a meal here for the experience or stay the night. I highly recommend spending a night here, it was the best accommodation we had in our entire trip.

Before dinner we went for a Hot Stone Bath, which is a must do in Bhutan. It’s basically a wooden bath tub, where the water is mixed with local herbs and heated by hot stones which are believed to provide many health benefits. From first-hand experience, I can tell you that it is a-m-a-z-i-n-g, perfect relaxation for the muscles and joints, just what we wanted in that cold weather.

Summary:

• Visit Chele La Pass
• Visit the National Museum
• Visit Paro Dzong
• Try the national dress ‘Gho’
• Lunch at My Kind Of Place Restaurant
• Coffee Break at Brioche Café
• Checkin homestay Aum Chodden Homestay
• Try the Hot Stone Bath
• Dinner at the homestay

Day 7

Our last day in Bhutan. We were well rested and ready for the one thing every traveller to Bhutan has on their bucketlist, hike to the PARO TAKTSANG (a.k.a. THE TIGER’S NEST). The hike is challenging and takes about 2 hours to get to the top but worth every drop of sweat. I made so many friends during the hike that I didn’t realize the time pass by, a lovely couple from Melbourne who gave me a lot of investment advice, a 77 year old New Yorker who celebrated his Birthday with his friends at the top, 2 amazing guys who were on my flight to Paro (surprisingly they turned out to be on our return flight as well) and a 87 year old lady who defied the stereotype of age and completed the hike with all of us. My point here is, don’t get intimidated by the climb, it’s an experience worth living so just grab a sunscreen and go for it.

We had lunch at Authentic Pizza again, the second restaurant we repeated during the trip. Rest of the day we spent in our homestay, playing board games and practicing archery (National sport of Bhutan) before another session of a hot stone bath and a last Bhutanese meal.

Summary:

• Hike to Paro Taktsang (a.k.a. The Tiger’s Next)
• Practice Archery
• Hot Stone Bath
• Dinner at the homestay

Travel Requirements To Bhutan (Must-Read For Everyone)

To avoid mass tourism yet generate a steady income for the country, Bhutan has a peculiar law for the people who’d like to visit their country. All tourists (excluding Indian, Bangladeshi and Maldivian citizens) require a Visa and must be traveling with an authorized tour operator to enter the country. The Government Of Bhutan has set a minimum per-night-per-person price tag of USD 250 in the peak months and USD 200 during the off peak months which needs to be paid prior to the trip for the Visa approval process. Pretty unusual right? Who thought going to a country like Bhutan would burn such a deep hole in the pocket? I had the exact same reaction at first, however, after visiting the country myself, seeing how that money is being put to use for the locals, I realized it’s just a small price for the happiness of human kind. This minimum fee will include your accommodation, all meals, a local tour guide and all internal ground transport.

As I mentioned earlier that citizens of India, Bangladesh and Maldives are exempted from this minimum fees, which gives a very big misconception that this category of tourists can go around Bhutan freely. Although being an Indian, I don’t require a Visa to gain entry into Bhutan but I am only allowed to visit Paro (the city with the only international airport) and the capital, Thimphu. Regardless of where are you from, to explore other parts of Bhutan you will need a special permit which can only be issued by a licensed tour operator, but which tour operator should you select?.

The purpose of running Please Stamp My Passport is to inspire people to travel on their own without having to shell out loads of money to travel agencies who will probably just take you to the most mainstream touristy sights and pass on the hidden gems. But Bhutan is an exception, I strongly recommend going through a tour operator for quite a few reasons.

1. You will need a ride to travel around and public transport is a big NO there.
2. Because tourism just picked up recently in Bhutan, there is barely any information online to prepare you for the trip, having a local will provide you with everything you need.
3. One of the best things about Bhutan is that it’s voluntarily far behind in technology, hence most of the bookings have to be made the old school way, a tour operator would do that all for you.

There are about 300 tour agencies registered on Tourism Council of Bhutan which is a very overwhelming list, trust me. You are in luck because I’ve found the best one, Bhutan Meonyul Tours & Treks and that is where I met my now good friend, Jamyang, a gem of a guy with immense knowledge on Bhutan who went above and beyond to give us the best experience of his country. He was more like a travel buddy with us rather than a guide and I can guarantee you that you will not find anyone better than him. A massive shout out to Pema, a trainee guide supporting Jamyang who also gave us company in our travels and agreed to be the model in many of my photos.

General Tips and Recommendations

• • The people of Bhutan bring faith in humanity. They are extremely hospitable, polite, humble and majority of them speak English. Education and health care is free in Bhutan and English is mandatory in all schools, hence majority of the country is well educated. Getting to know the Bhutanese is one of the best things from my trip and I strongly recommend you to do so.
  • The country is super safe, there is practically no crime and no corruption. Tourism in this country is strictly monitored by the Tourism Council of Bhutan and you will notice that every accommodation offered to tourists, even the most remote farms are registered under this council, so there is absolutely nothing you need to worry about. However, getting a Travel Insurance would be a good idea since you will be going in some really remote areas where if medical assistance is required due to some unfortunate incident, having being covered might benefit you gravely.

• Bhutan loves the nature, by law a minimum of 60% of the land is to be covered by plantation and at present it’s running at about 70% greenery, making it the world’s only carbon negative country. This means that more carbon is absorbed from the atmosphere than it’s produced, meaning you get the best air quality in the entire world. Fun fact, Bhutan also holds the Guinness record of planting the most number of trees in one hour, 49,672 trees with the help of a 100 men to be exact.
• Best time to travel to Bhutan is fall, from October to December where the skies are clear and the weather is pleasant or in Spring, around March and April when the flowers are on full bloom.
• 

  The Himalayan Range

  There are 2 international airlines in Bhutan, ‘Druk Air’, the national airline and ‘Bhutan Airlines’. The most common way into the country is via Kathmandu (where you could spend a few days in Nepal), however the flights also operate from India, Bangladesh, Singapore, Thailand among others. I flew via Kathmandu and returned via Delhi. A major travel tip for you, request for the left window seat on your flight to Paro and the right window seat on return to get the best views of the Himalayas during your flight.

• As I mentioned earlier, Bhutan isn’t very updated with technology so getting a good internet connection is almost impossible. However, a local sim card can be bought with a good 2G connection at a very reasonable rate from the airport or in the city. I got a 5 GB data package with a sim card by ‘TashiCell’ for about 6 USD. ‘Bhutan Telecom’ is the other service provider in Bhutan with a kiosk at the arrivals of Paro International Airport itself, but Jamyang suggested to go with TashiCell for better coverage in remote areas like Phobhjika Valley. Your guide can help you with this.
• Bhutan runs on hard cash, cards are only accepted in selected souvenir shops in the cities of Paro and Thimphu and that too with an additional 3% commission, these are also the only places you might find an ATM so carry enough cash with you. Money can be exchanged at the airport and Indian rupees, which are of the same value as the Bhutanese Ngultrum, are openly accepted everywhere in the country.
• The “Hotels” in this country are just basic accommodation facilities under the title of 3-star hotels. Do not expect luxury or state of the art facilities and be prepared to compromise with bad Wifi, periods of no electricity, mediocre food or low water pressure, but every hotel we went to did provide a very comfortable bed to sleep. Personally, I feel this is kinda understood but I came across dozens of people complaining and ranting it out on the internet so I thought I should warn you. All tour operators provide the same hotels so there is no escape here unless you take the option of upgrading to 4-star or 5-star hotels at an additional cost.
• Bhutanese food is spicy delicious. The local cuisine has a very good mix of beef, chicken, pork and vegetables. Everything is made with in-house or locally grown ingredients so everything is organic and unprocessed. If you are a foodie like me and appreciate good food, you will need to shell out some extra cash outside your hotel. A decent meal would cost you a maximum of 500 Nu. (approximately 7 USD) which many tourists are not willing to pay since their meals are already included in their hotel and since hotels don’t really serve the best quality food, you will find many people on the internet explaining their struggles with food in Bhutan which I didn’t have.
• For a truly unique travel experience, spend a night at a ‘Farmstay’ or ‘Homestay’. Experience living with the locals, the way they do. Let go of the Wifi and television and try your luck at their national sport, hear the local stories and sip on some warm tea around a fireplace with them.
  

  Archery

• Do attend a festival if there is one taking place whilst you are there, unfortunately we didn’t get any.
• For more information you are more than welcome to contact me, or visit https://www.tourism.gov.bt/ , the official website of the Tourism Council of Bhutan which has a lot of information for aspiring travellers to Bhutan.

As always, feel free to contact me for more information from any of my travels, Happy Travelling!!!